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This month I set off to cycle across one of my favourite provinces with one of my favourite people, and working with one of my favourite tour companies. After an inspiring visit to Newfoundland to hike the East Coast Trail, my father and I flew off to the Maritimes to take on a new Great Canadian Trails multi-day cycling itinerary: The Best of Nova Scotia by Bike. A decade ago, we rode across Prince Edward Island in similar fashion, with the resulting story becoming one of the most popular chapters in the book. My goal was to demonstrate that a multi-day bike ride is for everyone, and that you don’t have to be a hardcore cyclist with heavy saddlebags, ripped calves and tight spandex. Mission accomplished. These days, my dad and I are both significantly heavier, greyer, and arguably wiser too. This is why we chose to conquer Nova Scotia on e-bikes. Push a button, and the pedal assist turns us into fit super-humans, swallowing up hills with little physical exertion. After exploring Halifax, we spent a week riding the Rum Runners Trail on the South Shore, staying in Lunenburg and Chester. We were then shuttled to the lush Annapolis Valley, where we rode the Harvest Moon Trail through communities like Wolfville, Kingston, and Annapolis Royal, with its rich history stretching back to the early 1600s. I’ve written that adventure up for Canadian Geographic, so I wanted to focus on some of the other highlights of our week in the Maritimes: the wonderful people we met along the way. I’ve long said it’s the people you meet who create the paradise you find, and this is especially true in a province with famously colourful characters. Not just the locals, but the tourists too, clearly influenced by a maritime culture defined by hospitality. It just feels normal to strike up conversations with strangers: the people you meet in stores; the people you meet at wineries; the people who take your pictures; the people who shuttle you around; the people who sit opposite you at restaurants; the people who own those restaurants. For this post, I thought I’d introduce some of them to you too. Let’s start with Sarah. She’s the owner of I Heart Bikes, the largest bike rental store in Atlantic Canada, but also shines her sunny disposition on guests of Great Canadian Trails. Sarah provides the bikes and e-bikes, along with a comfortable shuttle to transfer you, your luggage and your bike to some of the most scenic spots in the province. She’s full of insider knowledge, history, and encouragement to get on the saddle because, as she told me, “cycling just makes people happy.” A native of Halifax, Sarah is a wonderful ambassador for the Maritimes, and I have a feeling my dad wanted to adopt her. We next met up with Pete, a talented photographer and videographer who came along to capture some truly dazzling images. My dad decided Pete and I are peas in a pod. He’s also passionate about travel, food, people, and nailing the perfect jump shot. Originally from Alberta, Pete and his wife Dalene migrated to Nova Scotia to live in the Annapolis Valley, where they also run a catering business, Luminous Moose Eats. Of all the places in Canada, they decided to settle here because they fell in love with the lifestyle, the food, and the people. You should visit their excellent blog, which covers not only eight years of incredible global travel, but their personal decision to settle down as proud Nova Scotians. Our guide around Halifax is Mel Zilkowsky of Down East Tours. Mel used to fix copy equipment and scanners, and reinvented himself as a tour guide years ago because he enjoyed showing people around. Today he runs private tours that focus on Halifax, the South Shore, and history, including visits to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and several cemeteries where we the story of the Titanic became so much more real and personal. The best guides always have their own stories to share. Sarah dropped us off in Lunenburg, where my dad and I took a 10-kilometre ride out to the fishing village of Blue Rocks, acquainting ourselves with the joy of pedal-assistance. We rode through tree-tunnels to emerge along sweeping coastline. A tiny shack at the end of the road sells souvenirs and delicious ice-cream. I ordered the intriguing sounding Moon Mist from The Point General’s owner, Katherine, who runs the store each summer. Moon Mist consists of banana, blueberry, cherry, and the sweet memories of a bubblegum childhood. We spoke to other patrons outside, including a couple from Ontario exploring the Maritimes in an RV with their friendly Doberman Ben. Ben couldn’t take his eyes off the ice-cream. “Who’s a good boy?” We ride back to Lunenburg where a music festival is taking place on the waterfront. Live folk music greets several visiting tall ships and seasonal crowds, with the bright-painted houses in this UNESCO World Heritage Site lighting up in the sunshine. After noshing on burnt ends at the Smoke House BBQ (because I seem incapable of passing up smoked brisket) we visit the farmer’s market on a jetty where I’m instantly drawn to a sign that reads “Non-Traditional Hot Sauce (because I’m incapable of passing up hot sauce too). Here I meet Darris, an army veteran who values flavour over heat, and hand makes tasty hot sauces in innovative packaging. Darris’s eyes tell me he’s seen some traumatic events, but his heart is bursting with a love for hot sauce, Lunenburg, and meeting strangers in farmers’ markets. I bought a variety pack of nine (yep, nine) different 100ml Nurple Hot Sauces in plastic pouches that are ideal for gifting. I had a dream about the 90s band Counting Crows. For some reason, my sleeping brain decided to run through every track in their seminal debut album, August and Everything After. The next morning, we were riding on the Rum Runners Trail towards Mahone Bay and see a shack with a sign that reads Antiques, Weird Stuff, Cool Junk. Inexplicably, the cool junk includes a sign that reads (and I’m not making this up): No Parking Except for Counting Crows Fans. Sometimes, the universe can be a little on point. We park and enter a wooden store crammed floor to ceiling with thousands of antiques, weird stuff and cool junk. You’d need years to catalogue the sheer range of stuff – toys, tapes, signs, tableware, novelties, souvenirs, trinkets, knick-knacks, instruments, dolls, tchotchkes, party tricks. A lady emerged with kind eyes and water for my dad’s empty bottle, clearly proud of her unique collection. Her name is Roxanne, she tells me her story, and she lets me take her photo. “And we all want something beautiful…” sing the Counting Crows. We’re loving the e-bikes. You hit that third level on the pedal assist, the bike takes off, and it feels like an angel is blowing on your back. Pete and my dad, both first time e-bikers, are instant converts. We spend the night in Chester, with Sarah shuttling us north to the Grand Prè National Historic Site in the morning. The site of the 1755 Acadian deportation is a solemn place surrounded by beautiful farmland. We discover the history and deportation of the Acadians, the French Catholic settlers who painstakingly carved fertile farmland from the deep marshes. Their story is told in the memorial church, through various plaques and statues, and inside the Parks Canada interpretation centre with the help of Amy, the Visitor Experience Team Leader. I’ve long felt that Parks Canada employees are hidden gems in this country. They’re full of knowledge, enthusiasm, respect, and passion for the country. Our favourite accommodation all week, by far, is the Stellar Rose B&B in Wolfville, the garden oasis of Neil, Robyn and their friendly Bernedoodle Chico. Hotels, inns and B&Bs get infused with the energy of the people who own and run them, and when those people are as lovely as this couple, the Stellar is the result. Their garden patio feels like a tropical wormhole, the rooms are cozy, while their homemade breakfasts are simply killer. Neil, an English transplant who coached squash around the world, is full of jokes and tales. He certainly knows his way around an Eggs Benedict. Robyn’s warmth and hospitality shines through wherever you look. My dad fell in love with the place, and as a result, with the university town of Wolfville too. In Port Williams, Pete guides me over to his favourite distillery, Barreling Tide. Their molasses-infused 5-Fathom Dark Rum is rich and delicious, and of course I added their Windward whisky to my ongoing metaphorical tastings (#112). We chat with Allyson over the counter about the various liqueurs and spirits, although I probably didn’t endear myself when I described the whisky as having notes of swamp water… but in a good way. We pop into The Port Taproom next door for yet another flight of quality craft beer, having already ordered a flight at The Church Brewing Co during lunch in Wolfville. Simply outstanding beer in a region better known for white wine. My dad and I ride our bikes through Wolfville, exploring the hilly campus of Acadia University and Wolfville Reservoir Park, with its stunning view of Minas Basin and Cape Blomidon. The bikes make easy work of the hills as we find our way to the Gaspereau Vineyards, where we have our best tasting, and further down the street to the vineyards of Benjamin Bridge. We spoke to people behind the wineries, but it was pretty busy and I never got their stories. We did chat to a friendly neuroscience student who came to our rescue after a somewhat frosty reception at Benjamin Bridge. Zeus’s Law says you should always welcome strangers because they might be gods in disguise. Esrock’s Law says you should always welcome strangers because they might be travel writers or critics. Taking photos on the side of the road, we strike up a conversation with Nancy, who is testing a MEC backpack before embarking on the bucket list Camino de Santiago. Nancy loves living out here, and tells us about the butterflies one would expect before a legendary months-long hike in Europe. We park our e-bikes and head into Lightfoot and Wolfville for pizza and salad, returning to find a couple named Simon and Sandy parking their own e-bikes. Their models have a throttle function, so they don’t even have to pedal if they don’t want to. They’re visiting from Halifax, and we naturally fold into a conversation about where we’ve been and where we’re going, but mostly about e-bikes and how much we love them.
We meet a lot more people in Annapolis Valley: a German baker and an Austrian chef with her charming granddaughter. A couple RV’ing from Texas, and another couple visiting from Atlanta. There’s a family from Louisiana rediscovering their Arcadian roots before the province-wide celebrations on Acadia Day; local ladies drinking Tidal Bay white wine at a wine bar, and a couple who retired to the valley from Ontario to make honey and soaps. I should have taken their names and photos too. There’s always more people than there is time to write about them. Nova Scotia in summer beams with the good times. The valleys are bursting with fruit and vegetables, the small towns are full of life, and the Rum Runners Trailway and Harvest Moon Trail are the perfect thread to weave it altogether. Still, it’s the people you meet – locals and visitors – who add the spark of personality and unpredictability you can’t plan for. The people you meet who create the paradise you find.
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My very first scuba dive was a house reef off the island of Tufi in Papua New Guinea. Firmly located in the Coral Triangle, a region of mind-boggling diversity and with the healthiest corals left in our oceans, the house reef of the Tufi Dive Resort was sensational, not that I had a frame of reference. My second dive was a wreck dive, followed by a night dive. How this came to be is another story altogether, but for now I thought it would be fun to look at three of my favourite dives: Ni’ihau and Lehua, Hawaii |
| I’ve always enjoyed making videos, and have made dozens of travel clips in the past. Still, I felt that being a Youtuber requires a different sort of skillset and dedication to that of a writer. Travelling with kids however inspired me to return to editing the short, punchy, montage-music videos I once revelled in. Here are my favourite videos from 2023 (hit full screen to see the magic): | Check out and subscribe to my Youtube channels for |
| This year, I also put many hours into a new edition of The Great Western Canada Bucket List, which Dundurn Press will be publishing in May, 2024. We’re revising and updating the Canadian Bucket List series - which continues to sell fantastically well since the last edition in 2017 – with tons of new experiences, and a beautiful new design. The companion blog, canadianbucketlist.com, features new stories every month, like this deeper dive into the Powder Highway, the best places to see cherry blossoms in spring, tips for canoeing the backcountry, how to approach an Indigenous experience, and a fun look at family travel attractions in Winnipeg. Meanwhile, a story I wrote for Great Canadian Trails - a fantastic travel agency that specializes in unique outdoor Canadian experiences - won a first-place award from the Society of American Travel Writers. On the subject of awards, I was one of three nominees for the Canadian Tourism Industry’s prestigious Travel Media Professional of the Year. Can't win 'em all! |
| It's been another successful year of sharing the wonders of my bucket list on stage and online too. The highlight was receiving a standing ovation for a keynote about the past, present and future of travel writing from my peers at the Travel Media Association of Canada. It’s a challenging era to be in travel media, and despite what people think, travel writers, PR professionals and bloggers are not on a permanent holiday. It takes a special kind of curious, positive and hard-working personality to work in this meshugana profession, and I’m proud to be part of the community. I also inspired thousands of clients and teams at Scotia Wealth, BMO Nesbitt Burns, Raymond James, National Bank, RBC Wealth, Assante Capital Management, Odlum Brown and CIBC Wood Gundy, working with fantastic advisors who recognize that dreaming big and travelling far is just as important as market returns! I got to speak in national museums, IMAX theatres, country clubs, boardrooms and fancy hotels too. Get in touch if I can inspire your team or clients with insights, stories and bucket list adventures! | Proudly some event feedback in 2023 "The best attended event we’ve had and it received the most positive feedback from our clients." - Scotia Wealth "Feedback from clients has been fantastic and we all really enjoyed hearing your stories, insights and adventures." - BMO Nesbitt Burns "Our clients loved it, and we literally had to push them out the door at the end of the evening." - Assante Capital Management |
| What does 2024 have in store? A lot more adventure and discovery. I’ll continue writing my Canadian Geographic column, exploring Canada and the world, working on the third edition of The Great Canadian Bucket List, speaking whenever I get the chance, and sharing stories that I hope find the right person at the right time to have a truly meaningful impact on their lives. One lives in hope (at least, I do). There’s a lot of bad news out there, a lot of uncertainty and stress. We never got the global celebration we deserved for beating the pandemic, just a war in Ukraine, economic chaos, political upheaval, climate disaster, and tragedy in the Middle East too. Yet every time I travel, I’m reminded how humans share the same values: we all want the best possible outcome for our children, and we all want to protect this big, beautiful blue ball we all call home. At least most of us. Don't worry, it’s all going to be fine, because it always is. Congratulations for making it through 2023. No matter what awaits us around the corner, I hope that travel and adventure provide the peace and inspiration you’re looking for. |
It was my first time in French Polynesia, although the coconut islands of Tahiti, Mo’orea and Bora Bora have long haunted my dreams, having featured in the pages of a paradise calendar that I cut out and plastered across my dorm room wall. I’d long heard about lagoons so clear you’d think the sea was an infinity pool, about beaches that squeak and opulent overwater villas. In truth, a week in the Maldives had made this nothing new. I’d also encountered Polynesian culture before through travels to New Zealand, Hawaii and the Cook Islands. I’d even explored the oddness of a French Overseas Territory before, on the island of New Caledonia in the Pacific and the Atlantic island of St Pierre and Miquelon off the coast of Newfoundland. Yet it’s the people you meet who create the paradise you find, and the people you travel with too.
| I often wonder how much of all this my daughter will remember: she spent a year travelling abroad at age five, and has now visited ten countries on four continents. Now ten, this was the first time I knew she’d remember a trip for the rest of her life. As for my mom, discovering paradise with her son and granddaughter, I’m sure she’d say the only better way to discover an exotic destination is to have the entire family along for the ride too. |
- – Visiting the stunning national parks, such as Banff and Jasper in the Rocky Mountains, or Algonquin Park in Ontario
- – Seeing the beautiful Niagara Falls, which straddles the border between Canada and the United States
- – Experiencing the vibrant culture and history of Canada’s major cities, such as Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver
- – Taking a road trip through the Canadian countryside, with stops at small towns and scenic locations along the way
- – Enjoying the great outdoors, with activities such as hiking, camping, fishing, or skiing in the winter
- – Discovering the rich First Nations cultures and traditions that are an important part of Canada’s heritage
- – Trying some of the delicious local cuisine, such as poutine (French fries with gravy and cheese curds), maple syrup, or Nanaimo bars (a type of no-bake dessert).
- – Taking a boat tour through the spectacular Niagara Gorge to get a close-up view of the mighty Niagara Falls
- – Going dog sledding in the snowy wilderness of the Canadian North, where you can see the Northern Lights and explore the frozen tundra
- – Going whale watching off the coast of British Columbia, where you can see orcas, humpback whales, and other marine life in their natural habitat
- – Visiting the Bay of Fundy, where you can see the world’s highest tides and explore the unique ecosystems of the tidal mudflats
- – Going on a safari in the Rocky Mountains, where you can see bighorn sheep, grizzly bears, and other wildlife in their natural habitat
- – Visiting the First Nations communities of Canada’s West Coast, where you can learn about the cultures and traditions of the indigenous peoples of Canada
- – Going ice fishing on one of Canada’s many frozen lakes, where you can try your hand at catching fish through a hole in the ice.
That’s a decent variety GPT, but travel writers like myself write stories, so let’s try one of those:
As they flew over the vast expanse of the Canadian wilderness, they were awestruck by the stunning views of snow-capped mountains, deep forests, and crystal clear lakes. They landed in Toronto, a bustling city known for its vibrant arts and culture scene. They spent their first few days in Toronto exploring the city’s many attractions. They visited the CN Tower, one of the tallest buildings in the world, and enjoyed breathtaking views of the city from the observation deck. They also visited the Royal Ontario Museum, where they marveled at the vast collection of artifacts and exhibits.
After a few days in Toronto, they decided to rent a car and drive west to the beautiful province of Alberta. As they drove through the countryside, they were mesmerized by the stunning views of the Rocky Mountains and the vast expanses of untouched wilderness.
In Alberta, they spent their days hiking in the mountains, marveling at the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. They also visited Banff National Park, where they saw stunning glaciers, waterfalls, and wildlife.
After a week in Alberta, they continued their journey east to the province of Quebec. In Quebec, they were enchanted by the charming French-Canadian culture and the beautiful architecture of the old city of Quebec. They spent their days wandering the cobbled streets and enjoying delicious French cuisine. Their trip to Canada was an unforgettable adventure that they would always cherish. They returned home with a newfound appreciation for the beauty and diversity of the country, and a desire to explore more of its wonders in the future.
Once a upon a… zzzzz. Only a robot that never sleeps would drive from Toronto to Alberta and then head to Quebec City. Check your itinerary ChatGPT! Where’s the colour, where’s the personality, where’s the real-life funny stuff? So I asked ChatGPT to have another go.
As they arrived at the falls, they were greeted by a gruff and weather-beaten tour guide who seemed to have seen it all. “Welcome to the Mighty Niagara Falls!” he boomed. “Are you ready to experience the thrill of a lifetime?”
The friends nodded eagerly, eager to get started on their adventure. The tour guide led them to a small boat that was moored at the edge of the falls. As they climbed aboard, the tour guide gave them each a yellow raincoat and a safety briefing.
“Now listen up!” he yelled over the roar of the falls. “If you fall out of the boat, don’t panic! Just grab hold of one of the life rings and we’ll fish you out!”
The friends exchanged nervous glances as they donned their raincoats and prepared for the ride of their lives. The tour guide revved up the engine and the boat set off into the heart of the Niagara Gorge. As they made their way through the swirling mists and roaring waters, the friends were awestruck by the beauty of the falls. They cheered and shouted with excitement as they passed under the powerful Horseshoe Falls, getting drenched by the mist and spray.
But just as they were beginning to relax and enjoy the ride, disaster struck. A sudden gust of wind caught hold of one of the life rings, sending it flying out of the boat and into the raging waters below. Without hesitation, the tour guide leapt into action. “Man overboard!” he yelled, diving into the water after the life ring. The friends watched in amazement as the tour guide fought against the powerful current, finally emerging triumphantly with the life ring in hand. “And that, my friends,” he said with a grin, “is how you survive a tour of the Niagara Falls!”
The friends laughed and cheered as the tour guide helped them back aboard the boat, grateful for their brush with disaster and the unforgettable experience of a lifetime.
Holy maple syrup, that’s a lot more exciting than my visit to Niagara Falls! Never mind the rapids, readers of that story must be careful to avoid drowning in thick and deadly cliches.
This has been an entertaining exercise to reassure myself that real writers add authentic, creative flair to their stories, the kind of unpredictable twists that AI bots – no matter how sophisticated – will always struggle with. We will either become more valued as a result, or future advances in the technology will be able to mimic our voices to make us redundant.
From the breathtaking natural beauty of the Rocky Mountains and the Bay of Fundy, to the vibrant culture and history of its cities, Canada has something for everyone.
One of my favourite things about Canada is its diverse landscape, which ranges from icy tundra in the north to lush rainforests in the west. This diversity is reflected in the wide variety of outdoor activities that are available, from skiing and snowboarding in the winter to hiking and fishing in the summer.
But Canada is more than just a paradise for nature lovers. It is also home to some of the most vibrant and exciting cities in the world, such as Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver. These cities offer a wide range of cultural attractions, from world-class museums and galleries to lively music and arts scenes.
But what really sets Canada apart from other destinations is the warmth and hospitality of its people. Canadians are known for their friendly and welcoming attitude, and they are always happy to share their country’s rich history and culture with visitors.
Whether you are looking for adventure or relaxation, Canada has something to offer. So pack your bags and head north to experience all that this amazing country has to offer.
With that generically vanilla, paint-drying editorial effort, I think my job is safe. For now.
Please come in. Mahalo for removing your shoes.
After many years running a behemoth of a blog called Modern Gonzo, I've decided to a: publish a book or nine, and b: make my stories more digestible, relevant, and deserving of your battered attention.
Here you will find some of my adventures to over 120 countries, travel tips and advice, rantings, ravings, commentary, observations and ongoing adventures.
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