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Packing Tips for Backpacking

1/29/2013

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Planning on a big, overseas adventure?   Here's some tips I wish someone would have told me: ​
  • Wear in your shoes before you leave.  You only need: 1 x rugged, waterproof shoe, 1 x utility sandals (optional), 1 x flip flops. 
  • Upload pictures, contacts, video and writing regularly to a blog or Google Drive.  
  • With so much information about, create your own, personalized guidebook.  
  • Bring a USB stick to share your photos and videos with other travellers. 
  • Create a phrase book for each country, print them on cards that fit in your pockets, or write them in your notebook. Locals appreciate you trying.  
  • Your GP can give you free shots that the Travel Clinic will charge for.
  • Buy medication on the road, when you need it.  You don't need to be walking pharmacy, and the weight adds up. 
  • Carry a pack of cards or a pack of UNO for group fun at airports, train stations, prison cells. 
  • If you're charging multiple cameras, tablets, iPods, e-readers etc each night, consider bringing a power bar with multiple sockets so you only need one adaptor. 
  • Plan ahead when travelling over high season/New Years Eve/Xmas! Accommodation is booked up and usually overpriced. Even cities like Rio are dead on Xmas eve (good luck finding a place to eat!) 
  • Book your flights early.  The sooner you do, the sooner your trip becomes reality (as opposed to a wishful thinking). 
  • Pack a pair of jeans. Yes they’re heavy and don’t dry quickly, but if you plan on hitting bars and clubs, you’ll wear them more than anything else in your backpack, that I assure you.  Jeans: Bring them.  
  • When buying the five garments you’re going to wear for the next 3-12 months, make sure they work well together (my grey shirt and grey shorts made me look like a mole.)
  • Call the credit card companies and authorize your cards to be used in foreign countries.
  • Stash $50 and a backup credit card somewhere in your backpack, just in case you lose your daypack.  
  • Know your bank fees when withdrawing from your credit or bank card.   Sometimes it pays to withdraw more at a time, sometimes it's not a wise idea to be walking around with too much cash. 
  • Get a cheap, inflatable neck pillow. You might actually sleep on a flight, and they come in handy when your hotel/hostel gives you a dishcloth for a pillow. 
  • Leave everything shiny at home.  
  • Never, ever trust a wake up call. 
  • Bring a reliable alarm clock. 
  • Leave space in your luggage to buy cheap clothes and souvenirs along the way.  At least a third empty: trust me, it will fill up quick.  
  • You only need to carry one book.  Trade it with travellers or hostels when you're done.  Chronic readers like myself should invest in an e-reader. 
  • If you're travelling in hot climates, you don't need a towel.  A sarong will do. 
  • Budget more for transportation. Remember, you’re traveling a lot, and buses, trains, taxis, boats and internal flights are more expensive than you think. 
  • If you're buying bottles of booze, make sure they're well wrapped with clothing. 
  • Keep all your tubes (sunscreen, toothpaste, contact solution) firmly sealed in a zip-lock bag.  
  • You will panic about things you forgot. Remember: They can send it, you can buy it.  
  • If going to Asia, practice the “squat.”  You’ll need those muscles when your butt is hanging over a hole you really don’t want to fall into.
  • Bring an extra pair of shoelaces.  I'd use them to secure my luggage to my leg when dozing off on dodgy public trains.  
  • Check-in your Swiss Army knife and nail scissors, or watch them magically disappear at the airport. 
  • Whatever time you plan to go to the airport, leave a half hour before that.   Why rush, why stress? 
  • Like electric fencing in a quiet friendly neighbourhood, a wire mesh for your backpack only draws attention to the fact that you have something valuable to steal.  Everyone I’ve met who bought one discards it as soon as they realize it is heavy and completely unnecessary.
  • Upload all personal info (banking details, passwords, scans of passports) in a password protected do to your webmail. 
  • Check out any upcoming travel talks.  These are a great way to get first hand info, ask questions, and get that little bit of inspiration you need to book the ticket.  
  • Rolling clothes really does save space.  
  • Compartmentalizing is key:  If everything has its place, it's easier to see what you've forgotten.  
  • Buy generic drugs, save money.
  • I’ve read that real travellers only take two pairs of underwear. Well, I don’t. I take eight (one week plus one). I must be a fake traveller then.
  • Budget for unexpected Visa fees and airport departure taxes. 
  • Travel with a cheap tablet for the music, movies, surfing on free wifi and calling back home on Skype.
  • Don't pack anything you're not prepared to lose in your backpack.   Keep your valuables on you, or locked up.  
  • Trust that there's always someone around better prepared, better equipped, and ready to help you find whatever you need. 
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Backpacking Tips from Real Travellers

1/24/2013

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Over many nights and many beers, through long journeys and bored boat rides, I 've asked a United Nations of backpackers for their best travel tips.  Here's what they came up with: 
  • Keep a journal / blog to remember your adventure (plus you're never alone with a pen and notebook). 
  • Lose the travelers cheques, they’re more hassle than they’re worth and bank cards do fine
  • Start somewhere mildly challenging, but don’t start off in India or Africa
  • Most bags get stolen on night buses, when travellers store them above the seats. Always keep your bags with you.
  • When traveling in high season, plan ahead to avoid frustration.   Use online hostel booking sites, which have recent reviews and updated vacancy calendars.  
  • Travel light
  • Shop around for tours, the biggest is usually not the best, nor the cheapest.
  • Try learn a little of the language in each country
  • Bring hand sanitizer
  • Avoid planning extensively – you find the best spots by speaking to the people you meed
  • Be bold with the food (except in India, and stay away from street sushi, Gary I'm looking at you!)
  • Don’t believe the bad stories
  • Keep an open mind
  • Don’t always believe the advice or directions of the locals, sometimes they’d rather give the wrong information than admit they don’t know.
  • Be positive about traveling solo!
  • Don’t listen to other’s advice, it’s so personal you’ll want to experience it yourself
  • Buy on the way, pack half, it’s cheaper
  • If you like your boy/girlfriend, go travelling with them!
  • Shop around for your ticket, even reputable agencies can be rip-offs
  • Don’t be embarresed about doing an organized tour
  • Be weary of “cosmic” travellers who seem to know everything!
You see, the universe wants you to book your ticket! ​
I know these things, because I'm the starshine travel guru they're warning you about.
Feel free to add your nuggets of wisdom.
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Personal Highlights from Some of the Countries I've Visited:

1/22/2013

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For the first time in a very long time, I don't have much travel booked, as I prepare for the arrival of an important character in the ongoing Adventures of Esrock.   Serendipitously, I stumbled across an old notebook which listed the highlights from much of my travels over the last decade.  It's a good as time as any for some reflection, a list of a life well lived (hopefully with plenty to go).   When I left high school, if someone would have said:  "Robin, you will do all these things before you turn 40" I would have laughed so hard ice-cream would eject out my nostrils, even if I wasn't eating any.  Which all goes to show: Anything is possible. ​
 Peru

Hiking the Inca Trail to Macchu Picchu, eating fresh ceviche on the beach.

Bolivia

Mountain biked the world’s most dangerous road (twice), crossed the Salar De Uyuni (the world’s biggest salt desert) in a 4×4, overnight on a catamaran on Lake Titicaca. 

Chile

Climbed an erupting volcano (Villarica), sandboarding in the Atacama Desert, catboarding in the Andes, getting lost on my bike in the Valley of the Moon. 

Argentina

Climbing and river rafting in Patagonia, partying in Buenos Aires, eating those huge steaks just about everywhere. 

Brazil

Hanggliding over Rio, visiting Iguazu Falls, relaxing in Jericoacoara, Sunday nights in Olinda, sailing off Salvador, Carnaval in Rio, New Year's Eve at a super club near Florianopolis, the Pantanal.

Czech Republic

Visiting the bone church of Kutna Hora Sedlec, listening to sweet jazz on the Charles Bridge, absinthe adventures with old hippies and errant US soldiers in the countryside. 

Croatia

Kayaking and swimming in the Dalmatian Coast, paintballing on the Serbia-Croatia border.

Albania

Milking Ilir’s cow, visiting the abandoned castle in Gijirokaster, and hitching through the countryside.

Venezuela

Swimming with wild dolphins, being chased by a tapir, seeing a pink river dolphin while swimming in piranha infested waters, abseiling off a waterfall. 

Greece

The red wine, olives and sunsets of Santarini, island hopping, smuggling contraband into Corfu.  

Turkey

Paragliding over the sparkling Med in Olu Deniz, exploring Cappadocia, and sunset on a boat in Koycegiz, sunrise with 2000-year old statues atop Mount Nemrut.

Hong Kong

The world's highest bungee jump (off a TV tower), gambling in Macao, underground alley cat bike racing on Halloween. 

Slovenia

Paragliding in the Julien Alps, ringing the bells on the island in Lake Bled.

Dubai

Dune buggying in the desert, high tea at the Burj Dubai hotel, sandboarding.

India

Yoga on the Ganges, seeing the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala, getting a tattoo in Goa, Mumbai and New Delhi, Taj Mahal. 

Malaysia

Riverboats in the jungles of Borneo, playing with monkeys, tigers, crocodiles, eagles and iguanas, eating nasi kinder curries, Penang, 

Japan

Singing Karaoke, meeting the Harajuku girls, being pushed inside a train.

Jamaica

Meeting locals along the South Coast, a visit to a Rastafarian village in the Blue Mountains, Weddy Weddy in Kingston, birdwatching and fishing with locals. 

Thailand

The lantern festival in Chiang Mai, riding an elephant,the buzz of Khao San Road, late nights in Pai. 

Laos

The two-day slowboat down the Mekong, exploring temples by bicycle in Luang Prabang, tubing the river bars in Vangvyieng

Sri Lanka

Burning coconuts at the Katharagama Festival, picking tea in the Highlands of Ceylon. 

Cambodia

Exploring the temples of Angkor, firing an Ak-47, visiting the Killing Fields and S-21 prison, massages on the beach in Sihanoukville.

Australia

Climbing the 72m tree in Western Australia, meeting kangaroos in Tasmania, cricket at the SCG, connecting with family and friends in Sydney.

Ukraine

Spending a night in Chernobyl, pressing the button at a former top secret  Soviet nuclear missile base. 

New Zealand

Skydived, Swooped, Zorbed, rafted the world’s highest vertical drop, speed races, Agrojetted, Bodyflying, mountain biking, 4×4′d, and lugeing in Queenstown and Rotorua.

New Caledonia

Spearfishing giant lobster and hunting deer.

Fiji

Taking shelter from a tropical storm.

China

Zipgliding the Great Wall of China, stumbling on Tiananman Square at dawn, visiting Mount Hua and the Yellow Mountain, cruising up the Yangtze River

Georgia

Learning a medieval martial art, drinking homemade wine out of a horn, mock battles in real castles. 

Mongolia

Galloping on the plains, camping in a traditional gur.

Jordan

Petra, exploring Amman, the Dead Sea (from the other side)

The Maldives

A week in a luxury ocean-villa

Russia

Swimming in Lake Baikal, Siberia, doing the Trans-Siberia Railway, exploring St Petersburg by foot, Star City, the Moscow State Circus.

South Korea

Learning to meditate in a Buddhist temple, meeting Dr Fish, teaching English to school kids.

Malta

Hunting winter sun and avoiding bombshells. 

Denmark

Absinthe and Christiania in Copenhagen, biking with a beer in Arhus

Papua New Guinea

Learning to scuba dive with the Scuba Diver Girls

Taiwan

Getting the Fire Doctor treatment, Yiheu Geological Park, Taipei 101, a toilet-themed restaurant 

Sweden

A week with the moose on “Moose Mountain”.

Barbados

Learning how to kitesurf and upright paddleboard with a Bajan world champion, making barracuda ceviche, learning to play polo. 

Norway

Camped in an old Nazi bunker in Narvik, under the midnight sun in the Arctic circle, bathing in fjords, partying in Bergen. 

Zanzibar

Camping on the beaches of Nungwe, getting lost in Stone Town

Colombia

Bullet proof vests in Bogota, the mud volcano of youth outside of Cartagena

Ecuador

Being rescued by a mountain shaman, dancing on a bus roof in Quito

Zambia

Swimming in a rock pool overlooking Victoria Falls, and flying up north for an afternoon.

Lithuania

Finding my grandfather's old village, learning about my past, dressing like a knight in Vilnius.

Swaziland

Swimming in the king’s sacred rock pool, meeting a hippo, smuggling contraband.

Poland

Finding my grandmother’s village, the haunting visit to Auschwitz.

Kenya

The Migration of the Wildebeest in Masai Mara National Park, helping the Flying Doctors with a medical evacuation. 

The Phillipines

El Nido, Palawan, Jeepnies in Manila (and everywhere else), Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Bicol, diving with Thresher sharks off Malapascua Island, Cebu

Ethiopia

Lalibela, and tribe watching in the Omo Valley.

Belize

Caving with underground waterfalls, riverboating to jungle ruins, meeting an odd village of Mennonites. 

Israel

Working on a kibbutz, floating in the Dead Sea, climbing Masada, clubbing in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

Egypt

Riding a camel by the pyramids in Giza, snorkeling the Blue Hole in Dahab, belly dancing in Cairo, dirt biking in the Sinai. 

Scotland

Vagabonding and hustling my way at the Edinburgh Festival, exploring the Highlands

Portugal

Running with bulls in the Azores, blindfolded walking tours in Lisbon, wine tour along the Douro, Porto, Halloween in a haunted 17th century hacienda

England

Living in London for a couple years, and all that comes with it, oh, Cornwall, spending a romantic night in an old castle.

Wales

Getting growled at on New Years Eve in Abergavanny.

Ireland

New Year’s Eve in Temple Bar, visiting Belfast during a security alert, drinking Guinness from the source.

France

Romance, the Louvre in Paris, Jim Morrison’s grave, the red carpet in Cannes, the Rugby World Cup.

Monaco

Gambling in a casino in Monte Carlo.

Latvia

Art Nouveau building watching, backstage at one of the world's oldest circuses, chasing stag parties in Riga. 

Cook Islands

Diving, hiking with Pa, paradise islands, midnight scooter runs around Rarotonga, bush pub in Atiu, magic in Atitaki.

Italy

Michaelangelo’s David in Florence, the Vatican, pizzas and toga parties in Rome, driving a Lamborghini and a Ferrari near Modena, real Balsamic vinegar, toga party in Rome. 

Germany

Too much beer at a beer hall in Munich, exploring the Rhine.

Holland

A disastrous yet fun train ride to Amsterdam, where the memories are still pretty fuzzy.

Iceland

Volcanoes, waterfalls

Romania

Running about with the Hash House Harriers of Bucharest, dancing in Cluj Napoca, overnight in a traditional Transylvanian village.

Spain

Gaspacho in Valencia, the smell of olive oil in the air at Grenada, meeting the Black Crowes in a Barcelona cafe. 

The United States

Mardi Gras 2000, driving through Nevada, Arizona and Utah in a red convertible, Vegas parts I, II, III and IV, Alaska, rally racing the Oregan coastline in a vintage Porsche, Burning Man 2010/2012, Explorer's Club gala in New York.

Mexico

Wrestling in the ring with Luchedores, Guadalajara, Manu Chao in Mexico City, backpacking the Yucatan Peninsula.

Finland

Getting smoked in traditional and public sauna, riding a rollercoaster with a manual handbrake, getting frugal in Helsinki

South Africa

The Garden Route, the Drakensburg, Nambiti Hills, walking with a lion, bungee jumping in Gouritz River, a night in the Lost City, swimming with crocodiles, cage diving with Great White Sharks. 

Canada
​

See: The Great Canadian Bucket List
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Is Zorbing Safe?

1/14/2013

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Last week, a tragic accident took place at a ski resort in Russia.  Two guys strapped themselves into a zorb - a  kind of wild, plastic ball ride - rolled down a hill, breached the track, and promptly rolled off a mountain. Flung from the ball, one guy was killed, the other seriously injured. The Youtube video is a terrifying, as we see the fun bounce out of control.   Was it an accident, or negligence?   By all accounts, the latter.   I've zorbed several times in New Zealand, where it is offered with other fun, locally-invented sports like the Luge, Swoop, Shweeb and Agrojet. 
You sign your customary waiver, choose a dry zorb (pictured above) or a wet zorb, if you'd prefer to be tossed around like a sock in a washing machine.  Both made me ill, but then these things usually do.   In Russia, the operators clearly had no idea what they were doing (this was their first Zorb run) violated just about safety measure they could, and promptly hightailed it when the police came calling.  So what can we learn from all this? ​
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Zorbing with Agrodome Adventures in Rotorua, New Zealand
You'd think a heavy bouncy zorb would protect you from just about anything, but that's clearly not the case.  You would also think that the Russian guys stepping into the zorb at the top of a mountain would consider the possibilities, which is drastically different from the zorb experience above in Rotorua, New Zealand. Here, the ball rolls down a short hill, hits a ramp, and stops on its own accord. Kiwis have perfected this kind of thing.  Russians, not so much.   Our two Russian friends could have saved themselves by asking some basic questions before their ill-fated ride: 
 - Did the operator have a safety record? (No)
 - Did the operator follow course safety guidelines? (No)
 - Did they know they were guinea pigs in a wheel? (No)
Therein lies that common sense we hear so much about when travelling, and yet need reminding of every once in a while. Accidents are accidents, but stupidity is dumb. ​
Zorbs, in the proper environment, are harmless fun.  Odd, yes, dangerous no.   A few weeks ago I did the public skeleton ride on the world's fastest bobsleigh track in Whistler. 100km/hr face first, inches above the ice.  Harrowing stuff, but everyone emerged (mostly) unscathed. It is a tightly controlled, regulated and monitored thrill ride.
The next day I caught an edge on my snowboard, banged my neck on an icy traverse, and 6 weeks later am still paying for it with a pinched nerve.  My legs were tired, it was the last run of the day, I should have taken it easy.  There's no blaming the mountain, only myself.  Likewise, there's no blaming the zorb.  Just people who make stupid, deadly decisions. 
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The Wet Zorb, Rotorua
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The Story of Max

1/8/2013

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With his towering height, Max was always going to attract attention.    Born in 1962, many people claim he might be the tallest male in all of Thailand -  even after so many years of hope and pain, all the ups and downs of a rolling jungle hill.    His adventures begin in the jungles of the north, where he is born into a poor family of festival performers.  Max’s earliest memories paint loud parades, holidays and weddings, covered in bright robes to greet friendly smiles.   But, like many others in the region, once he came of age, Max was sent to work.   To put food in his mouth, he found work at a logging camp, where tough men would work long hours in scorching temperatures and torrential rain,  clearing and cutting down thick jungles for wood.   Here, Max developed a thick-skinned approach to life that would see him through many more hardships.   Conditions were terrible, but soon enough another opportunity came his way, this time in the form of the exploding tourism industry.
Help was needed to accommodate and transport the ever-increasing number of tourists heading to the region.   Unlike trees in the forests, Max discovered that tourists don’t break and splinter when they fall – they shout and scream and complain and threaten to sue.    He was never a social creature, never one to roll over to those he didn’t respect.  Simply put, he was stubborn, arrogant with youth and drunk on strength.   One unfortunate day, a group of sunburned Englishmen pushed him too far, and he reacted violently, his intentions merely to scare, but his actions clumsy.  The tourists got a few bumps, the authorities got involved, and Big Max, Big Clumsy Aloof Max, was locked away for the minor offence. 
Refusing to remain chained up for long, he used his wits and power to escape, heading deep into the forest.   Here, he would rely on the lessons learned from his youth, how to forage for food and berries, find shelter.   Under the stars, he made raids into the fields of a nearby village, drank from their irrigation systems.   Survival was possible, but the villagers soon discovered this new unwelcome stranger, and called in the monks to help.   They coaxed Max out the jungle and into the temple, offering him a spiritual life, in keeping with their strict Buddhist practices.   This quiet life, of meditation and thought, pacified him for a while.  Although there was some peace here, there was also not enough food to support his giant personality, enclosed after so many months in the forest.   His weight dropped dramatically, his skin flapping on his giant frame like the canvas of a tent. ​
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Max felt trapped, restless, hungry.    Villagers could see that the temple was too small to keep him tied down for too long, and demanded the monks release him instead.  He was put in a truck, and sent away to the city.   And so a new adventure began, as Max entered  a strange new world, the biggest city with the brightest lights of all, Bangkok. ​
With no food and no place to stay, Max ends up on the streets, begging for scraps, living in parking lots and scrimmaging in garbage scraps.   This concrete jungle is not like any jungle he has ever known.   The constant noise vibrates in his skull, making him tired, irritable, unable to sleep.  The lights burn his eyes like pin pricks, the choking pollution gripping his lungs, slashing his throat.   His stomach rotting with whatever he can find to put it into it, the days and nights pass in blurs of screams and punches, a blend of violent animal instincts and docile submission.  He was dying, and then he was almost killed.   Wandering the streets one night, dazed by lack of sleep, an 18-wheel truck clips him on the side of the highway, dragging him underneath its wheels for a few meters before coming to a halt.  Miraculously, he survives, but his right front leg has snapped in half.   ​
Throughout his turbulent life, strangers had come to his aid, appearing like angels in a dream, briefly holding back the demons of reality.    It is these strangers who help Max recover, regain his strength, feeding him what little there is to go around, putting his leg in a makeshift wooden splint.   After a few weeks, he is able to limp again, and all wonder:  was it his size or spirit that helped him survive the accident?  And, in hushed tones, would he have been better off dead?  What is there for him to look forward to?  More begging?   More angels, more demons?    Luck finds him first, in the form of a tribal family who take pity on this homeless giant, bringing him back to the jungle where he can work for his food, instead of slowly dying on the streets of Bangkok.    A warm, kind woman named Lek finds him second, horrified by his physical condition, and the sad story of his life.   Lek Chailert had just started a refuge for the homeless, the hurt, the sick and the poor, and with the cooperation of the tribal family, takes Max under her care.
Five years later, Max has recovered his strength, his weight, his pride.  He stands tall, dignified, like a political prisoner being released respectfully into the offices of power.   His right leg will always be bent, making him walk slowly, thoughtfully, with purpose and esteem.  Others at the camp regard him highly, revering his experience and the wisdom he has learned from it.   Gentle with the babies, popular with the ladies, here he resides as an elder statesman, an example of how we can all conquer our adversity, temper our demons, and believe in hope.   Max is still weary of the few tourists who visit the Nature Park.  His memory is as fresh as that of an elephant.   ​
Max is just one of the dozens of elephants supported through donations at the Elephant Nature Park in Northern Thailand.    This unique wildlife reserve protects, rehabilitates and houses elephants rescued from abusive conditions such as elephant camps, illegal logging, and street begging.  For more information, visit their website: www.elephantnaturefoundation.org. ​
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    Greetings. 
    ​Please come in. Mahalo for removing your shoes.


    ​After years running a behemoth of a blog called Modern Gonzo, I've decided to a: publish a book or eight, and b: make my stories more digestible, relevant, and deserving of your battered attention.

    ​Here you will find some of my adventures to over 120 countries, travel tips and advice, rantings, ravings, commentary, observations and ongoing adventures.

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