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After a busy summer, September has always brought with it a travel hangover. It’s back to school, back to work (although I’m working all through summer), and the start of a new cycle of planning adventures, conjuring up stories, locking down speaking events, along wit the various puzzle pieces that string my strange career together. Time flies when you’re in the flow, and the flow was relentless this summer. I kicked the holidays off by taking both kids to Aruba, then onto Montreal, the Eastern Townships, and Charlevoix. You can read how that worked out with my Aruba and Montreal columns on Canadian Geographic. A few more stories are still coming down the pipe, but in the meantime, you can check out the family travel videos I put together recording that journey.
My next trip didn’t get a video because I was too busy hanging on for dear life. My annual Harley Davidson B.C Roadtrip was fortunately uneventful, other than a few torrential downpours and riding into apocalyptic smoke in the B.C interior. Renting a bike from Eaglerider Vancouver, my Road Glide carved up the asphalt like Thanksgiving turkey, and my fellow riders always make great company. This year we had Norm’s support vehicle which shuttled instruments for outdoor and hotel room jams, including a memorable night as Daniel Cook and the Radiators entertained wildfire crews in the parking lot of a cheap motel in Cache Creek. The sky was sepia, with an end-of-days feel to the town. Motorcycle trips always make a dramatic canvas to paint a memory. With the kids away at summer camp, the missus and I took a rare opportunity to head to Europe together, spending a lovely week exploring Salzburg and Vienna. After several family trips, the grown-up couple travel was refreshing, full of museums and stellar meals, urban wandering, and rare time to recharge and reconnect. Europe was cooking, again, with temperatures in the high 30Cs. All signs point to these temperatures being the new normal, which is problematic in old Europe, where people walk up flights of stairs and air conditioning isn’t common. We loved our visit to Austria, as you can see in the story I wrote about Vienna, and the videos I put together that record our experience:
The following week, I found myself on a plane with my father to Halifax to tick another Great Canadian Trails adventure off the bucket list. After hiking the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland, this time we’d be cycling across Nova Scotia, the first visit to the province for my dad, and the first time he’d be riding an e-bike. The resulting story for Canadian Geographic reveals how that went, and why my dad wants to plan our next e-biking adventure. It was world class food, wine, scenery, and great company all the way through, and was another compelling reason why active Canadian outdoor adventures make the best multi-generational memories. If you need another one, check out the video, with rockstar drone footage courtesy the talented Pete Heck. A few days later, I found myself casting and reeling for monster trophy fish in the remote Northwest Territory. My son joined me for a true bucket list angling experience in the north, a story that manifested after I met some lovely folks in Inuvik and Yellowknife after delivering a tourism keynote last November. Lac La Matre is a lake sea almost three times the size of Toronto, and it is home to lake trout and northern pike that fuel the dreams of serious anglers. For my son’s first fishing trip, it’s like starting a mountaineering journey with a hike up Mount Everest. The resulting story captures it best, but check out the video below, which is a neat bookend to Gali’s trip north to Churchill several years ago. The kids sure grow up fast. I dropped off one kid, picked the other up, and flew east to Toronto for a story about the traditional southern Ontario resort experience. The Resorts of Ontario encompass dozens of properties, but we’d focus on four different locations with different business models, ranging from all-inclusive to corporate, wine and golf to cottage. Threading between each resort was a road trip through beautiful countryside, farmland, and a reminder how easy it is to escape the bustle of Toronto. It also felt like a bittersweet swan-song to the travels I’ve done with my 13-year-old daughter, written since she was a baby, and recorded in video since she was 4-years, and spanning 18 countries. There’s an innocence lost as she begins high school, and naturally begins to stake the boundaries of her independence. Whatever the next stage brings, she’ll always be my sky full of stars. 8 weeks, 4 provinces, 2 countries, 1 territory – and still some time for backyard BBQs too. I usually begin each September with an empty plate that almost immediately fills up with tasty adventures, opportunities, and unexpected desserts. This annual cycle has some semblance of consistency, but nothing can be taken for granted, and every journey remains a prized and deeply appreciated gift. I’m excited, anxious and eager to see what will happen next.
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This month I set off to cycle across one of my favourite provinces with one of my favourite people, and working with one of my favourite tour companies. After an inspiring visit to Newfoundland to hike the East Coast Trail, my father and I flew off to the Maritimes to take on a new Great Canadian Trails multi-day cycling itinerary: The Best of Nova Scotia by Bike. A decade ago, we rode across Prince Edward Island in similar fashion, with the resulting story becoming one of the most popular chapters in the book. My goal was to demonstrate that a multi-day bike ride is for everyone, and that you don’t have to be a hardcore cyclist with heavy saddlebags, ripped calves and tight spandex. Mission accomplished. These days, my dad and I are both significantly heavier, greyer, and arguably wiser too. This is why we chose to conquer Nova Scotia on e-bikes. Push a button, and the pedal assist turns us into fit super-humans, swallowing up hills with little physical exertion. After exploring Halifax, we spent a week riding the Rum Runners Trail on the South Shore, staying in Lunenburg and Chester. We were then shuttled to the lush Annapolis Valley, where we rode the Harvest Moon Trail through communities like Wolfville, Kingston, and Annapolis Royal, with its rich history stretching back to the early 1600s. I’ve written that adventure up for Canadian Geographic, so I wanted to focus on some of the other highlights of our week in the Maritimes: the wonderful people we met along the way. I’ve long said it’s the people you meet who create the paradise you find, and this is especially true in a province with famously colourful characters. Not just the locals, but the tourists too, clearly influenced by a maritime culture defined by hospitality. It just feels normal to strike up conversations with strangers: the people you meet in stores; the people you meet at wineries; the people who take your pictures; the people who shuttle you around; the people who sit opposite you at restaurants; the people who own those restaurants. For this post, I thought I’d introduce some of them to you too. Let’s start with Sarah. She’s the owner of I Heart Bikes, the largest bike rental store in Atlantic Canada, but also shines her sunny disposition on guests of Great Canadian Trails. Sarah provides the bikes and e-bikes, along with a comfortable shuttle to transfer you, your luggage and your bike to some of the most scenic spots in the province. She’s full of insider knowledge, history, and encouragement to get on the saddle because, as she told me, “cycling just makes people happy.” A native of Halifax, Sarah is a wonderful ambassador for the Maritimes, and I have a feeling my dad wanted to adopt her. We next met up with Pete, a talented photographer and videographer who came along to capture some truly dazzling images. My dad decided Pete and I are peas in a pod. He’s also passionate about travel, food, people, and nailing the perfect jump shot. Originally from Alberta, Pete and his wife Dalene migrated to Nova Scotia to live in the Annapolis Valley, where they also run a catering business, Luminous Moose Eats. Of all the places in Canada, they decided to settle here because they fell in love with the lifestyle, the food, and the people. You should visit their excellent blog, which covers not only eight years of incredible global travel, but their personal decision to settle down as proud Nova Scotians. Our guide around Halifax is Mel Zilkowsky of Down East Tours. Mel used to fix copy equipment and scanners, and reinvented himself as a tour guide years ago because he enjoyed showing people around. Today he runs private tours that focus on Halifax, the South Shore, and history, including visits to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and several cemeteries where we the story of the Titanic became so much more real and personal. The best guides always have their own stories to share. Sarah dropped us off in Lunenburg, where my dad and I took a 10-kilometre ride out to the fishing village of Blue Rocks, acquainting ourselves with the joy of pedal-assistance. We rode through tree-tunnels to emerge along sweeping coastline. A tiny shack at the end of the road sells souvenirs and delicious ice-cream. I ordered the intriguing sounding Moon Mist from The Point General’s owner, Katherine, who runs the store each summer. Moon Mist consists of banana, blueberry, cherry, and the sweet memories of a bubblegum childhood. We spoke to other patrons outside, including a couple from Ontario exploring the Maritimes in an RV with their friendly Doberman Ben. Ben couldn’t take his eyes off the ice-cream. “Who’s a good boy?” We ride back to Lunenburg where a music festival is taking place on the waterfront. Live folk music greets several visiting tall ships and seasonal crowds, with the bright-painted houses in this UNESCO World Heritage Site lighting up in the sunshine. After noshing on burnt ends at the Smoke House BBQ (because I seem incapable of passing up smoked brisket) we visit the farmer’s market on a jetty where I’m instantly drawn to a sign that reads “Non-Traditional Hot Sauce (because I’m incapable of passing up hot sauce too). Here I meet Darris, an army veteran who values flavour over heat, and hand makes tasty hot sauces in innovative packaging. Darris’s eyes tell me he’s seen some traumatic events, but his heart is bursting with a love for hot sauce, Lunenburg, and meeting strangers in farmers’ markets. I bought a variety pack of nine (yep, nine) different 100ml Nurple Hot Sauces in plastic pouches that are ideal for gifting. I had a dream about the 90s band Counting Crows. For some reason, my sleeping brain decided to run through every track in their seminal debut album, August and Everything After. The next morning, we were riding on the Rum Runners Trail towards Mahone Bay and see a shack with a sign that reads Antiques, Weird Stuff, Cool Junk. Inexplicably, the cool junk includes a sign that reads (and I’m not making this up): No Parking Except for Counting Crows Fans. Sometimes, the universe can be a little on point. We park and enter a wooden store crammed floor to ceiling with thousands of antiques, weird stuff and cool junk. You’d need years to catalogue the sheer range of stuff – toys, tapes, signs, tableware, novelties, souvenirs, trinkets, knick-knacks, instruments, dolls, tchotchkes, party tricks. A lady emerged with kind eyes and water for my dad’s empty bottle, clearly proud of her unique collection. Her name is Roxanne, she tells me her story, and she lets me take her photo. “And we all want something beautiful…” sing the Counting Crows. We’re loving the e-bikes. You hit that third level on the pedal assist, the bike takes off, and it feels like an angel is blowing on your back. Pete and my dad, both first time e-bikers, are instant converts. We spend the night in Chester, with Sarah shuttling us north to the Grand Prè National Historic Site in the morning. The site of the 1755 Acadian deportation is a solemn place surrounded by beautiful farmland. We discover the history and deportation of the Acadians, the French Catholic settlers who painstakingly carved fertile farmland from the deep marshes. Their story is told in the memorial church, through various plaques and statues, and inside the Parks Canada interpretation centre with the help of Amy, the Visitor Experience Team Leader. I’ve long felt that Parks Canada employees are hidden gems in this country. They’re full of knowledge, enthusiasm, respect, and passion for the country. Our favourite accommodation all week, by far, is the Stellar Rose B&B in Wolfville, the garden oasis of Neil, Robyn and their friendly Bernedoodle Chico. Hotels, inns and B&Bs get infused with the energy of the people who own and run them, and when those people are as lovely as this couple, the Stellar is the result. Their garden patio feels like a tropical wormhole, the rooms are cozy, while their homemade breakfasts are simply killer. Neil, an English transplant who coached squash around the world, is full of jokes and tales. He certainly knows his way around an Eggs Benedict. Robyn’s warmth and hospitality shines through wherever you look. My dad fell in love with the place, and as a result, with the university town of Wolfville too. In Port Williams, Pete guides me over to his favourite distillery, Barreling Tide. Their molasses-infused 5-Fathom Dark Rum is rich and delicious, and of course I added their Windward whisky to my ongoing metaphorical tastings (#112). We chat with Allyson over the counter about the various liqueurs and spirits, although I probably didn’t endear myself when I described the whisky as having notes of swamp water… but in a good way. We pop into The Port Taproom next door for yet another flight of quality craft beer, having already ordered a flight at The Church Brewing Co during lunch in Wolfville. Simply outstanding beer in a region better known for white wine. My dad and I ride our bikes through Wolfville, exploring the hilly campus of Acadia University and Wolfville Reservoir Park, with its stunning view of Minas Basin and Cape Blomidon. The bikes make easy work of the hills as we find our way to the Gaspereau Vineyards, where we have our best tasting, and further down the street to the vineyards of Benjamin Bridge. We spoke to people behind the wineries, but it was pretty busy and I never got their stories. We did chat to a friendly neuroscience student who came to our rescue after a somewhat frosty reception at Benjamin Bridge. Zeus’s Law says you should always welcome strangers because they might be gods in disguise. Esrock’s Law says you should always welcome strangers because they might be travel writers or critics. Taking photos on the side of the road, we strike up a conversation with Nancy, who is testing a MEC backpack before embarking on the bucket list Camino de Santiago. Nancy loves living out here, and tells us about the butterflies one would expect before a legendary months-long hike in Europe. We park our e-bikes and head into Lightfoot and Wolfville for pizza and salad, returning to find a couple named Simon and Sandy parking their own e-bikes. Their models have a throttle function, so they don’t even have to pedal if they don’t want to. They’re visiting from Halifax, and we naturally fold into a conversation about where we’ve been and where we’re going, but mostly about e-bikes and how much we love them.
We meet a lot more people in Annapolis Valley: a German baker and an Austrian chef with her charming granddaughter. A couple RV’ing from Texas, and another couple visiting from Atlanta. There’s a family from Louisiana rediscovering their Arcadian roots before the province-wide celebrations on Acadia Day; local ladies drinking Tidal Bay white wine at a wine bar, and a couple who retired to the valley from Ontario to make honey and soaps. I should have taken their names and photos too. There’s always more people than there is time to write about them. Nova Scotia in summer beams with the good times. The valleys are bursting with fruit and vegetables, the small towns are full of life, and the Rum Runners Trailway and Harvest Moon Trail are the perfect thread to weave it altogether. Still, it’s the people you meet – locals and visitors – who add the spark of personality and unpredictability you can’t plan for. The people you meet who create the paradise you find. Your body is the one piece of gear you can't leave behind, upgrade, or check as luggage. There's a particular kind of uncomfortable silence that falls over a dark hotel room when your partner has just elbowed you awake for the third time in an hour. It's the silence of someone doing complex math about whether it’s possible to sleep in the bathtub. For years, I told myself that snoring was just something that happened to other people. I remember sharing hotel rooms with the videographer of my TV show who snored like a rusty chainsaw at full power in the lower depths of hell. Then I got older, gained a few pounds, and somewhere around my 163rd long-haul flight and my my three-thousandth hotel room, my wife elbowed me in the back and said she couldn’t take it anymore. That's when I knew I’d officially become a snorer, and my snoring had become a travel liability. Your body is the one piece of gear you can't leave behind, upgrade, or check as luggage. You can buy the best noise-canceling headphones, the most ingenious packing cubes, and the perfect memory foam neck pillow, but if you're keeping your companions (or the couple in the next room, or your own exhausted brain) awake all night, none of it matters. I've slept in over 120 countries, and nothing wrecks a trip faster than waking up exhausted, day after day, running on empty. So, I did what I do with most travel problems I encounter. I looked for a fix that was small, portable, and boringly effective. That's how I ended up with a mandibular advancement device (or MAD, an acronym that describes the mental state of a snorer’s partner). If you haven't encountered one, it's a custom-fitted oral appliance that looks like a slimmed-down mouthguard. The MAD gently shifts your lower jaw forward while you sleep, a subtle adjustment that opens up the airway in your throat. This results in less vibration in the soft tissue at the back of your throat, which means little or no snoring at all. I was skeptical. I'd already tried nasal strips that make you look like you're perpetually mid-sneeze. I'd tried sleeping propped up like a Victorian invalid. At home, I'd tried various pillows that made empty promises to keep you on your side, which mostly just resulted in an exhausting night fighting a pillow. The mouth guard device was different, because it wasn't fighting my sleep position or my nose so much as it addressed the actual mechanics of why I was snoring in the first place. It comes in a travel case the size of a small soap dish, and it goes in the same pouch as the rest of my toiletries. For people with severe sleep apnea, a CPAP machine remains the gold standard, but an oral appliance is dramatically easier to travel with. It eliminates the hassle and bulk of a CPAP, with its hose, mask and hunt for electrical outlets with the right plug adapter and voltage. It's honestly no bigger deal than packing a toothbrush. After a consultation and 3D scan at a dentist, I was fitted with a Panthera, a custom-molded mouthguard that takes up less room than a phone charger and needs nothing but a brush to clean each morning. For someone who's spent two decades trying to fit an entire life into carry-on luggage, it’s a game changer. What got me over the line was a conversation I had on a Viking cruise along the Danube, the kind of trip where you end up talking to strangers over wine about personal issues that you'd never normally discuss with someone you just met. A retired contractor from Miami, deep into his second glass of Chianti, told me about his own snoring saga, while his wife nodded throughout, affirming the tale. "It was either this or my wife would make me sleep on the ship balcony," he said. I told him rooms on the Viking Jarl didn't have a balcony. "Exactly," was his reply. He said the appliance had saved many vacations over the years, and that his wife now packed it for him before he even thought to ask. That line stuck with me, mostly because I recognized the look of a man who has been banished to a bathtub, a pull-out couch, or a spare room. Nobody wants to snore and be a nuisance, but our bodies do it anyway. Curious to understand the actual science behind how this little device works, I spoke with Bradley Kalmek, a Vancouver-based sleep specialist at Sleepworks Medical. He explained the appeal for frequent travellers in particular. "Most people don't realize that snoring and mild sleep apnea are largely mechanical problems. When the jaw and tongue relax back during sleep, they can partially block the airway. An oral appliance holds the jaw in a slightly forward position to keep the airway open. For travellers, it's especially useful because it requires no power source, no water, no maintenance beyond basic cleaning.” I can attest that it works just as well in a hotel in Switzerland as it does in a tent in the Okavango Delta. For anyone sharing a room, here’s a travel item nobody ever recommends because it isn't very exciting. But, as anyone who has ever suffered jet lag will tell you, what makes or breaks any trip is simply whether you managed to get some rest. It’s one thing to spend a night in an ice hotel, or take a road trip across Ireland, and another to do it foggy-headed because you spent the night startling yourself awake with your own snoring, and pissing off anyone unlucky to be near you in the process. The Panthera X3 oral device Since I started traveling with my oral appliance, things have improved greatly when I travel with my wife. Hotel walls have stayed blissfully unblamed. I wake up sharper and ready to go, because it turns out that uninterrupted restorative sleep, even a version engineered by a small device shifting my jaw a few millimetres forward, does what sleep is supposed to do. If you travel often, or share a bed with someone who's ever sighed heavily at 3 a.m. and reached for a spare pillow, it's worth getting properly assessed for an oral appliance instead of assuming you're doomed to a lifetime of nasal strips and apologetic mornings. I know it’s not glamorous, but you’re not wearing this thing out in public. Like a bidet, an oral appliance is not something you usually mention at dinner parties, even if it transforms your life. But it might just be the smallest, most quietly game-changing thing in your carry-on. Best of all, nobody has to sleep in the bathtub. Note: Snoring can also be a symptom of sleep apnea. If you snore regularly, it's worth getting professionally assessed before deciding whether an oral appliance is appropriate. I tell stories about destinations. This is very different from assuming I know how best to visit that destination, or what the current situation may be on the ground. Sometimes I can help, but sometimes the stories I tell date back too far in the past to be of much practical use. Which is not to say the story isn’t worthwhile, because sometimes, the stories are magical and timeless. Take, for example, my very brief visit to Barcelona at the tail end of 1992. This was a different world of course, before social media, before smart phones, before the Internet. The famous Basílica de la Sagrada Família was decades away from being completed, in fact it was only officially inaugurated this very month, 34 years later. It still made an impression, but has very little to do with my Barcelona story. For that, we need to track even further back in time to a kid growing up during the global cultural boycott of Apartheid, South Africa. South African radio enjoyed a steady slew of music hits drawn from the best US and UK artists, but we saw few if any touring international artists. Queen did play Sun City, a huge resort outside of Johannesburg and according to the Apartheid government, technically outside of South Africa too. Sun City was located in Bophuthatswana, a puppet state considered an independent country by the National Party of South Africa and a sham by everyone else. Queen performed there, along with Rod Stewart, Elton John, Frank Sinatra, and inexplicably Stevie Wonder, all drawing the ire of their contemporaries. I was too young for any of it, although coincidentally, my first-ever international rockstar concert was in Sun City shortly after the end of Apartheid. Thanks for the hits, Bryan Adams. With the fall of Apartheid came the arrival of touring international artists, many of them at the tail end of their careers. Nobody was particularly eager to travel to the south of Africa, but I’m sure Duran Duran and Dr Alban appreciated the pay checks. Mother Africa was finally opening its arms to the world, but I had missed the adolescent experience of seeing a world-class act coming up in the clubs or theatres, or seeing any world-class acts at all. My friends and I were obsessed with the Black Crowes’ first album, 1990's Shake Your Money Maker. It was hip-slinging blues-rock Americana containing classics like Hard to Handle, She Talks to Angels, and Twice as Hard, which we would sing along to and crank through the distorted speakers in our first cars. You might be surprised to learn that my first big travel experience was a Contiki tour after finishing high school, a possible reward for above-average grades but more likely a testament to my begging skills. The tour would kick off in London, and reading an imported copy of NME, I saw that the Black Crowes would be performing in London the very evening of our arrival. I can’t recall how we managed to buy tickets…this in the days before the internet or the proliferation of credit cards, but hell hath no determination like a kid obsessed with music. Somehow, we scored tickets to our first ever ‘cool’ show on the night of our first ever visit to Europe, and somehow it all went smoothly. We got to the Brixton Academy, got up front, and got to see these Atlanta-born rock n’roll gods cranking their hits while we screamed every word. You never forget that first show. The Contiki European bus tour covered something like 11 countries in 18 days, a whistlestop visit to Western Europe’s Greatest Hits. We saw the Eiffel Tower, Venice and the Tower of Pisa, but mostly we saw a lot of beer and older Australians encouraging us to drink as much of it as humanly possible. Naturally it’s all a haze and a very inauspicious start to a long career chasing meaningful, authentic travel experiences. We got to Barcelona on a slow Sunday, and that night we decided to find somewhere to drink. There were no screens to distract us, and the girls we were hanging out with – shout out to Nikki, Rachel and Samantha – decided wisely to get some rest. So off we went – Brad, Sam and I – looking for a pub which really shouldn’t have been that difficult, but what did we know from sleepy Sunday nights in Catalonia? Everything was shuttered, but eventually we found a single open coffee shop, empty and well-lit, where we ordered a round of Peroni Nastro Azzurro beer. We couldn’t have been there very long when the door of the coffee shop opened and in walked an assortment of strange, long-haired freaky looking people, also in search of a few drinks. “Dude, I think that’s the Black Crowes,” I recall Brad saying. We knew the band was on a European tour, and it wasn’t difficult to recognize the same guys who stood on stage just a few metres away from us a week earlier. They had hippie velvet threads, dirty long hair and undernourished rockstar bods. What are the chances? I should emphasize that it wasn’t just the Black Crowes. For us, the Black Crowes were like Pearl Jam and Nirvana, like 80s era A-ha and Duran Duran, like Metallica and Rush. Yet inexplicably, here they were, just us and the Black Crowes, accompanied by security guards and several gorgeous groupies. Of course, it fell on me to do something about it. Gingerly, I walked up to the bar, approached the singer Chris Robinson, and remember saying something like: “Sorry, you look like the singer of the Black Crowes.” “Yeah man,” said the singer of the Black Crowes. “Are you Chris Robinson,” I asked. “Yeah man,” replied Chris Robinson. “We saw you last week in London. We’re from South Africa. You’re the first real famous band we’ve ever seen!” “Yeah man!” said Chris Robinson. This is where things get blurry in my memory, but here’s how, three decades later, I believe it went. Chris called over other members of the band and told them we were from South Africa and they were the first real famous band we’d ever seen, a week ago, in London. He then invited us all to the bar, where he bought us some beers. The security guys initially looked sceptical but quickly relaxed because we were just three skinny, nerdy geeks beaming at our good fortune. We had some conversations about weed. I recall speaking to one of the groupies, who told me she was the girlfriend of guitarist Rich Robinson, Chris’s younger brother. They had played in Barcelona that night, and were winding down. They had thick southern drawls which sounded like something you’d hear in a movie, because that’s the only place we’d ever heard accents like this before. I think one of us did ask for a photo, but Chris Robinson declined, and we were certainly not going to press it. After a half hour or so, they packed up and left, leaving us stunned. We walked back to the hotel, hollering and howling, hugging each other, jumping about, utterly elated for having met our heroes. It was the apex moment of late teenage joy. A few days later, watching MTV in a hotel room, we caught the Black Crowes video for a new single called Sometimes Salvation, a bluesy number pulled from their second album, The Southern Harmony and Musical Companion. We didn’t have MTV in South Africa, so every video we saw made an immediate impression. And there she was: Rich Robinson’s girlfriend, wearing I swear the same tiger print jacket, looking a little sad. Man, we loved that album too. Tastes shifted, times changed. It pains me to say but I can’t remember a single song from the Black Crowes’ third album, Amorica, or anything from their seven albums since. A new one just dropped in 2026, called A Pound of Feathers. I expect they’ve aged better than we have, and certainly have better hair. Concerning Barcelona, this is the story I have. It has nothing to do with Park Güell or Gaudi’s Basilica, with Montjuïc Hill or the Gothic Quarter, but it’s a great story nonetheless. Time plays tricks on memories, filling in blanks, embellishing details. I have a sum total of four photos from Barcelona, and none from that evening. Yesterday I whatsapped my old mates Brad and Sam, and asked them what they remember from that night.
Me: Do you remember meeting the Black Crowes in Barcelona? What do you remember about that night? Brad: Sure do - we were in a random bar somewhere and either they walked in or they were sitting there. We went to talk with them (you probably had your Lawless rebel jacket*) and they said something strange when we asked them to be in a pic with us … like yeah that would be cool but we’d prefer not to as you could take a picture of a car and it may just blow up and catch fire, so yeah no pictures … we had a laugh coz they must have been proper grilled. I think we bought them some beers [what the hell?]. I don’t remember the girl in MTV and I don’t remember groupies … it was just us who recognized them. Was probs 30 mins … it was like Christmas for us. Bro - that was 26 years ago Sam: Believe it or not that was 34yrs ago! I remember Esrock telling them that we had the best weed in SA. They were so cool to us and then we read a bit later somewhere about issues with their bodyguards being too aggressive and f**ing up fans. Brad: Thanks for making me 8 years older. Sam: Hey buddy. The grey don't lie. Other than Brad recalling that we bought the drinks (which would have been strange because they were genuine rock stars although clearly not averse to shaking down their money makers) and having no recollection of the girl (Brad never did notice the girls until later) my memory has served me well. Now the moment has been apprehended, captured, and filed for the records. What does this have to do with Barcelona? Not much, but it was instrumental in teaching me that when you put yourself out there, you never quite know what’s going to happen. * I got my Mom to sew a Lawless Rebel bikers patch on my bright blue anorak. I thought this would make me very cool, and had a grand old time flashing the Lawless Rebel whenever law enforcement might be around, captured below. Yes, I was a total punk! My very first scuba dive was a house reef off the island of Tufi in Papua New Guinea. Firmly located in the Coral Triangle, a region of mind-boggling diversity and with the healthiest corals left in our oceans, the house reef of the Tufi Dive Resort was sensational, not that I had a frame of reference. My second dive was a wreck dive, followed by a night dive. How this came to be is another story altogether, but for now I thought it would be fun to look at three of my favourite dives: Ni’ihau and Lehua, Hawaii |
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To celebrate its 60th Anniversary, Whistler Blackcomb has launched a curated network of seven Wonder Routes to help guests of all abilities navigate the best of both mountains. The premise is simple: visit the website, download (or copy and paste) the suggested itinerary onto your phone, start at the first step, and let it guide you forward. The genius of this idea is evident by the enthusiastic response we receive when we tell people about it in the gondola and on various chairs. It’s all self-guided, so you don’t have to book anything in advance or pay anything more. What’s more, you can tackle the Wonder Routes by the letter, or amend, edit, and reference them as a starting point. With conditions clearing up, our group of two adults and two kids decided to go for the views first, with the aptly named: Top of the World.
The Après Route starts from Blackcomb and hits all the patios and lodges. The Glade Stashes Wonder Route guides you into the best tree runs, like Gnarly Knots, Gun Barrels, Outer Limits, and Raptors Ride off the 7th Heaven Express. This one is for advanced skiers eager to chase down black and double-black diamonds. Also for experienced skiers and boarders is the Gold Medal Route, which visits slopes and runs used during the 2010 Winter Olympics and 2025 Invictus Games. Kicking off the new 8-person Fitzsimmons Express lift, connect onto the Garbanzo Express to access the Dave Murray Downhill, which hosted the Olympic Men’s Downhill competition as well as the Super G course. Above the Timing Flats, look out for individual signs honouring gold medal winners from the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games.
The Wonder Routes removed a lot of the guesswork, providing much-needed direction that we quickly came to trust and enjoy. Along the way, we discovered new sections of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, and the kids enjoyed the treasure hunt of finding and completing both routes. Here’s hoping more routes are added in the future for different scenarios, like a Powder Route, a Surprise Route, or a Have-it-All Route. Maybe other mountains will get inspired to create their own Wonder Routes too.
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The jet-lag nap is not a normal nap. It’s more like handling explosives. One wrong move and your internal clock detonates, leaving you wide awake at 3:07am, doom scrolling foreign news. So here's some tips:
First Rule: Napping Is Not Sleeping
This sounds obvious. It is not. A nap is not “just lying down for a bit.” A nap is a strategic, tightly controlled intervention. It has boundaries. It has an exit plan. It does not involve pyjamas, blackout curtains, or the words “I’ll just close my eyes for a second.” The moment you get under a duvet in the afternoon, your body assumes it has time-travelled home and starts resetting everything. Congratulations, you’ve just booked yourself a midnight espresso.
The Magic Window: 20 to 40 Minutes
The ideal jet-lag nap is short enough to take the edge off but not long enough to enter the deep, drooling-on-the-pillow phase. Twenty minutes is safe. Thirty minutes is ideal. Forty minutes is living dangerously but still survivable. Anything longer and you risk waking up disoriented, emotionally fragile, and oddly angry, a condition known as the Nap Hangover, which no amount of coffee will cure (not that I haven't tried). Set an alarm or timer. Then set a second alarm. Put your phone across the room if you have to. This is not the time to trust your judgment.
Timing Is Everything
If you must nap, aim for the early afternoon, roughly between 1pm and 3pm local time. This is when your body naturally dips anyway, even without jet lag. Napping after 4pm is dangerous. You’ll pay for it later, usually while staring at the ceiling in the dark, coming up with the perfect comeback for that conversation from 2008 that still haunts you.
Stay Semi-Dressed, Like You Mean It
This is an underrated trick. Nap on top of the bed, not in it. Keep your clothes on, and remain clearly in day mode. You’re resting, not committing to a night of sleep. It will help you get up, and stay alert.
Light Is Your Friend
Do not nap in total darkness. That’s a sleep cue, and your circadian rhythm is already confused enough. Let some daylight in. Crack the curtains. Remind your body that the sun is still doing sun things and that night is not, in fact, happening right now.
Caffeine: Use if Wisely
This will be mildly controversial but can be highly effective: drink a coffee right before your nap. Caffeine takes about 20–30 minutes to kick in, which means it starts working just as you wake up. You get the rest without the grogginess. Science backs this up, which is reassuring because it feels like cheating. Just don’t do this late in the afternoon unless you enjoy being awake during hotel fire-alarm tests at 2am. I'm sensitive to coffee, so try avoid it after 12pm, unless I'm fighting jet lag, in which case, pour me another americano.
When in Doubt, Walk It Out
Sometimes the best nap is no nap at all. If you land in the morning and feel like a zombie, go outside. Walk. Get light in your eyes. Eat something vaguely healthy. The human body is surprisingly adaptable when bullied gently enough. Yes, you’ll be tired. But tired at 9pm is exactly where you want to be.
The Goal Is Bedtime, Not Comfort
This is the mindset shift that matters. Jet lag isn’t about how you take off in the afternoon but about where you land at night. Every decision should funnel you toward a normal, local bedtime. Normal local bedtime, by the way, should avoid social media, horror movies or doom scrolling before you sleep.
What about Melatonin?
I've used melatonin for years, but sparingly, and in low doses. You don't need 10mg, and there's evidence to suggest a light dose is just as effective. My top end is 3mg, but I find 1mg can do the trick as well. This is for bedtime, not napping by the way.
Jet lag, like air travel, is a pain in the ass, but given the rewards of travel, it's a pain in the ass that is ultimately worth it. On average, the circadian rhythm shifts roughly 1 hour per day without intervention. The nap is a tool, not a reward. Use it sparingly, with intention, and without sentimentality. It will work out, because it always does.
Since you made it this far, you'll probably want to learn a little more about jet lag:
- Jet lag is not about lack of sleep — it’s about light.
The primary driver of jet lag is disruption to your circadian rhythm, which is regulated mainly by exposure to light, not how many hours you slept on the plane. Your brain’s “master clock” resets based on when light hits your eyes. - Flying east is harder than flying west
Humans naturally run on a circadian cycle slightly longer than 24 hours, making it easier to stay up later than go to bed earlier. That’s why eastbound flights (which require advancing your clock) generally produce worse jet lag than westbound ones. - Jet lag measurably slows reaction time, like being mildly drunk. .
Studies show jet lag can impair reaction time, attention, and decision-making to a degree comparable to having a low blood-alcohol level. You may feel functional, but your brain is operating on reduced bandwidth. - Jet lag affects digestion more than most people realize.
Your gut has its own circadian clock. Disrupting it can lead to constipation, diarrhea, bloating, and reduced insulin sensitivity, which is why “airport food regret” feels worse when crossing time zones. - Exposure to morning or evening light can either help or worsen jet lag.
Light isn’t always helpful, it depends when you get it. Morning light advances your clock (useful after eastbound travel), while evening light delays it (useful after westbound travel). Get this wrong and you can accidentally lock jet lag in place. - Short naps help; long naps actively delay recovery.
As explained above, controlled naps under 30–40 minutes can improve alertness without shifting your circadian clock. Longer daytime sleep pushes your body toward its old time zone and slows adaptation. - Melatonin can work, but timing matters more than dosage.
Small doses (0.5–3 mg) taken at the target bedtime can help shift circadian timing. Taken at the wrong time, melatonin can make jet lag worse or simply knock you out without resetting anything. - Athletes and pilots show performance drops for days after travel.
Professional sports teams and flight crews have measurable declines in performance, coordination, and decision-making for several days post-flight — even when they feel “fine.” Jet lag is sneaky that way. - Jet lag increases injury risk and accident rates.
Research links circadian misalignment to higher rates of workplace accidents, driving errors, and even medical mistakes. It’s one reason pilots and surgeons have strict duty-time rules after long-haul travel.
Fact is, somewhere between the check-in counter and 35,000 feet, people often lose their minds. A fast-moving, crammed, pressurized cabin – not to mention the process of checking in and making your way through the theatre of security screening – is a lot to deal with.
As I discussed with Matt, there was a time when flying was aspirational, not transactional. It wasn’t just about cramming bums on seats and cutting costs by eliminating the free nuts. People dressed up to fly in suits and hats, and gourmet meals were served with tablecloths. Those days are long gone. The U.S. Transportation Secretary recently made the news with a cringe-inducing statement suggesting people should dress up again and return to this Golden Age of Flying, transferring the blame for airline incidents onto passengers instead of the system they’re put through.
Airline security is an absolute farce. There’s little consistency, we’re still removing shoes decades after one lunatic hatched a loony plan, and in some countries (mostly the USA), the TSA treats passengers with the respect of cattle in line at the abattoir. Various studies and trials have repeatedly shown the entire safety screening process to be ineffective at actually stopping a motivated passenger from getting onboard to do harm. Security theatre adds some reassurance, but a whole lot more stress and anxiety. I recently saw a mother arguing with airport security in Toronto about travelling with bottles of pumped breast milk. The baby was right there, but the bottles were over 100 ml, so it was clearly not milk but an explosive substance that would destroy the plane (likely detonated from a diaper).
All this stress chews people up. We become impatient, agitated, annoyed. Then throw in flight delays, poor communication, time changes, crying babies, and missed connections. Cram everyone on the plane and the real miracle is that the vast majority of people manage to keep it together.
- The Recliner vs. The Knee Defender
- The Armrest Duel
- The Overhead Bin Squeeze
- The Oblivious Reading Light
- The Fart Monster
This kind of anonymity removes social consequences, but unfortunately, it doesn’t remove social impact. Flight attendants – one of the most under-appreciated professions, along with teachers and bus drivers – have to manage all this without it boiling over. When it does, planes are forced to land and police are called in. If that’s never happened to you (and it’s never happened to me, despite the prodding at the start of the CBC interview), you can credit a flight attendant. They’re heroes, these people. We should treat them as such.
Design a transportation system with humans in mind:
Add more natural light and quiet spaces in airports, make the seating more comfortable, provide chargers and Wi-Fi, create play areas for kids, use relaxing scents and music, and do whatever you can to make it a pleasant space to waste a few hours. Some airports do this better than others. Fly through Changi in Singapore and you’ll see what I mean. In Canada, compare the experience of flying through Toronto’s Pearson versus Vancouver’s YVR.
Increase communication and control:
There have been improvements with text message updates, but airlines are often slow to respond when something goes awry. It’s not the gate attendant’s fault, and screaming at them isn’t going to change anything. The major issue with air travel comes down to a lack of control. Once we’re in the system, we’re told where to line up, what to remove from our cases, where to sit, when to eat, when to sleep, where to stand, and when to use the bathroom. More control – or even a perceived sense of control – goes far.
Incentivize good behaviour:
There’s a lot of stick and very little carrot. For example, if your carry-on is too big (even though the person in front of you just walked through with a bigger carry-on), it gets checked. But what about giving a reward for being courteous and helpful? A small symbolic token of appreciation because everyone boarded smoothly. Gold stars for you! Thank you for not clipping your nails on the plane. Gamify the process; it actually works.
I remember giving a keynote years ago for operations staff at YVR, and I was super impressed by their dedication and awareness in creating a better airport experience. It’s why YVR wins awards and is my favourite Canadian airport. As I told the CBC, flying is a modern logistical and technological miracle, and it’s come a long way since people used to chain-smoke and crane their necks to see the bad in-flight movie. With new advances in technology and studies of passenger behaviour, I think it’s going to keep getting better.
Now sit back, lay off the tomato juice (that stuff is toxic in a pressurized cabin) load up a bad movie, and enjoy.
Please come in. Mahalo for removing your shoes.
After many years running a behemoth of a blog called Modern Gonzo, I've decided to a: publish a book or nine, and b: make my stories more digestible, relevant, and deserving of your battered attention.
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